Somewhere around 2005, Prenzlauer Berg stopped being interesting to the people who write about Berlin. The squatters had moved on, the rents had tripled, and a new cliché took hold: the neighborhood was now for strollers and brunch, not art and rebellion. Two decades later, that cliché still circulates — and it hides something worth paying attention to. Prenzlauer Berg is Berlin's most complete gentrification story. Not the most dramatic. Not the most contested. The most fini