Most guides treat Kreuzberg as one place. It isn't. What's labeled "Kreuzberg" on your map contains two neighborhoods with different histories, different tensions, and different reasons to visit. Miss this, and you'll either end up in the wrong half — or worse, leave thinking you've seen Kreuzberg when you've only seen half of it. The eastern part, still called SO36 after its old postal code, was pressed against the Berlin Wall for nearly three decades. Cheap rents drew Turki